Visual Overrides Verbal
Visual Cues override Verbal Commands
Teaching Visual Cues is actually easier than teaching Verbal Commands.
Dogs view the world with their Nose, Eyes, Ears, in that order.
So, when you give your dog the “Sit” command and simultaneously raise your hand (often to lure with a treat in it) you’re not only luring your dog into position but also creating a Visual Cue that overrides the Verbal Command.
If you say “Sit” and provide body language at the same time, your dog primarily focuses on the body language which diminishes the value in the Verbal Command alone.
Instead, what you want to do, is say “Sit”, pause/wait for 1-2 seconds, and then raise your hand to give a Visual Cue or Lure your dog into position. This gap of time specifically pairs the Verbal Command with the Visual Cue which are both tied to the behavior. This helps your dog understand “Sit” means “Sit” without assistance from a Visual Cue later on when fading the Lure.
Visual Overrides Verbal & Marker Training
The same concept applies when utilizing Marker Training, Visual Overrides Verbal.
Mark, Move, Pay.
Click, wait, then treat.
Say “Yes”, wait, then go in your treat pouch and pay the dog.
When Marking a behavior with “Yes” or “No”, be sure to Mark verbally before you move to deliver a reward or punishment. The marker depicts the outcome, not the body language depicts the markers. The 1-2seconds allows the dog to really pair the verbal to the consequence and both to the behaviors.
Dog Sits, Mark with “Yes”, Pause/Wait 1-2seconds, reward the dog!
Marker Training
Clear Communication
Establish clear communication with your dog by using a system of markers (the word or sound (e.g. clicker) that marks a behavior your dog just did as: good or bad, right or wrong, encouraged or discouraged, continued or released).
1 Click or "GOOD"
This is a Duration/Continuation Marker used for holding positions, building duration, or encouragement.
Example: I ask the dog to sit, once their butt touches the ground, I say "Good” or Click Once, this Marks the desired behavior and communicates to the dog that I like what they are doing but want it to continue. So, if I say "Sit" and I Click Once or say "Good”, I am telling them to keep sitting. If I reward them for this, it is usually with one food reward brought/delivered to the dog in position like room service. This builds duration for commands, can be used as encouragement and eliminates the need or rather takes place of a "Stay" command.
2 CLICKS or “YES”
This is a Terminal/Release Marker which tells your dog that they did the right thing and are released, and to come to the Handler for a big reward.
The patterned reward placement (dog comes to handler for reward) is intentional and useful for mitigating reactivity/aggression, as well as simply adding clarity to our communication.
Example: I ask the dog to “Sit” and once their butt touches the ground, I Mark the desired behavior with “Yes”, upon which they stop sitting and come to me in anticipation of reward. This reward should be a much better and more exciting event, like giving multiple food rewards or playing tug.
No and/or Phooey
This is a Negative Marker and tells your dog that they did NOT do the right thing and to try again. You can have 2 or more Negative Markers to differentiate between Negative Punishment (No Reward) & Positive Punishment.
Example: If I ask the dog to sit, and they do NOT sit, I will say "Phooey” to Mark the undesired behavior, and withhold reward (Negative Punishment), then when they do finally sit, I will use “Good” or “Yes" to Mark the behavior and reward them!
Alternatively, If the dog jumps on a guest, I can Mark the undesired behavior (paws on guest) with “No”, and then apply a Positive Punishment such as a Leash Pop, Pet Corrector, Squirt Bottle, Etc.
Reminder, the purpose of Positive or Negative Punishment is to decrease the likelihood of a behavior reoccurring.
The purpose of Positive or Negative Reinforcement is to increase the likelihood of a behavior reoccurring.
Break
This is a Terminal/Release Marker that tells your dog that they are released and free to be a dog!
You can use this as a Reward/Positive Reinforcement Marker as well, but this is primarily used to indicate to the dog that they are finished and free to relax, be a dog, and choose their reward.
Example: I ask the dog to sit, once their butt touches the ground, I Mark the desired behavior with “Break”, and the dog is then free to choose their reward which could be running free, playing, smelling, pottying, resting, etc.
When done playing or working with your dog, you can tell them “Break” and they can do whatever they want!
You can have and use several different Markers communicating Positive or Negative outcomes, Terminal/Release or Duration/Continuation, Direct or Indirect Reward Placement, Etc.
*Note: It is important that you wait 1-2 seconds before delivering the reward or the body language will override the verbal cue (Visual Overrides Verbal).
*Example: Use the marker, wait 1-2 second, then give treat. Repeat.
After enough repetitions, your dog will begin to anticipate a reward anytime they hear the Markers. This means the Marker Word or Clicker is Charged or Loaded with value to the dog and can now be used to pair the rewards with desired behaviors (Sit, Down, Etc.)
*Note: Once your Markers are “Charged” or “Loaded” you may also vary your reward schedule depending on where your dog is at in the learning stage of their obedience. But you must always “Recharge” or “Reload” with more rewards following the markers to maintain value. This is referred to as Maintenance Training. Dog Training is never finished or complete, there will always be maintenance work to be done.
Using Classical/Counter Conditioning to Create and/or Change Associations to stimuli
Just as you can create positive associations to obedience behavior/positions, you can also create positive associations to Stimuli/Triggers, or in other words change how they feel about anything and everything in the environment! Simply Mark & Reward anytime your dog perceives or acknowledges the stimuli.
Example: Your dog looks at another dog, Mark “Yes”, your dog comes to you for reward (Treat), repeat. Through many repetitions, your Dog will associate reward with the other dog. After which you can start to Mark and Reward when the dog looks away or disengages from the other dog to encourage/reinforce neutrality.
This concept applies to all things, fireworks, thunderstorms, vacuums, grooming, nail trims, leashes, harnesses, slick floors, dogs, people and so on!
Learn More About How to Use Marker Training Here:
Leash Work
Opposition Reflex
Opposition Reflex refers to a dog’s instinctual response to go against or opposite of any physical pressure.
Pull your dog towards you and they’ll automatically pull in the opposite direction; try to push them away and they’ll automatically push back against you.
This information is useful when trying to teach a dog how to walk on a loose leash. This is also why harnesses are ideal for allowing pulling.
Instead, you should use an appropriate leash and collar with action that tightens and loosens such as a Slip Leash/Collar, Prong Collar, Martingale Collar, Etc. and condition the dog to yield towards/with/into pressure to thus turning pressure off for reward/positive reinforcement.
Typical leash pressure work goes like this:
1) The handler puts a slight pressure on the leash in a certain direction and waits. (The dog typically shows a bit of initial resistance)
2) The dog eventually gives in to the pressure and moves into the leash, thus making the pressure go away.
3) The handler praises the dog and (optional) marks the behavior and gives a reward of a treat or toy.
The treat/toy reward of step 3 is optional because the release of pressure is the initial reinforcement. There is no need for further reward for the system to work.
Conversational Leash Work takes the leash handling one step further.
1) The handler puts a slight pressure on the leash in a certain direction and waits. (The dog typically shows a bit of resistance)
2) The handler feels through the leash that the dog makes a shift in mindset from resistance to cooperation. (The dog doesn’t actually have to move an inch; the shift can be felt in the dog’s muscle tension.
3) The handler actively releases the pressure from the leash, showing the dog that he is listening to her.
4) The dog typically completes the rest of the action on her own, with no tension of the leash.
This subtle change in technique creates a dramatic shift in the outcome of the work. Where traditional leash pressure work is simply a tool to help shape obedience cues, Conversational Leash Work becomes a powerful aid in establishing a relationship of mutual respect, trust and cooperation.
Leash Corrections/Punishment
Leash Work as described above is primarily Negative Reinforcement used for Motivation, Guidance, and Accountability.
However, this pressure and release method is not a very effective way to correct or punish unwanted behavior such as pulling or barking at strangers etc. Leash Work teaches your dog the Mechanics of the leash and how to navigate pressure, while also reinforcing behaviors and building confidence and relationship.
Leash Pressure can be used to motivate or guide your dog into behaviors while also providing clear communication (via pressure/release) between you and the dog.
But it doesn’t punish pulling.
To effectively punish pulling, you want to pop or flick the leash firmly. How firm or hard you need to pop the leash is entirely dependent on the dog, their intensity in the moment, and their understanding of the leash mechanics. If they are pulling and there is tension in your leash, you need to lean in until there IS slack in your leash and then pop firmly until they stop pulling and engage with you. Once they engage with you, mark and reward!
Any time you deliver a correction or punishment, on the leash or otherwise, you should give an alternative behavior afterwards. and then reward your dog for that behavior.
*Example: Dog is pulling, deliver Leash Correction, ask them to follow you, Heel, or give eye contact, mark and reward!
*Not all dogs are the same and not all dogs will respond the same to Positive Punishment and/or Leash Corrections.
*It’s important to understand why your dog is pulling, barking, lunging, etc.
*It is also important that your dog understands what is expected of them and what they are and are not allowed to do before correcting or punishing them as well.
*Incorrect use of punishment can create unwanted conflict between you and your dog.
Learn More About How to Use Leash Pressure Here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNoq3YCQIQc&t=35s
https://connectwithyourk9.com/if-you-arent-listening-its-just-a-lecture/
https://www.thrivingcanine.com/blog/2014/04/28/communicating-leash-restraints-pops-and-pulls
Connoisseurofk9s.com/resources
https://www.patreon.com/Connoisseurofk9s/
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Prevention, Management, & Supervision
Prevention is the best cure.
Set your dog up for success through proper management, prevention, & supervision.
Preventing problem behaviors can be as simple as keeping your dog on a leash.
Yes, even inside the home.
Keeping a leash on your dog allows you to utilize clear communication while reducing conflict between you and your dog. The leash allows you to stop your dog from getting into trouble and allows you to redirect/guide them to alternative desired behaviors.
The leash also allows us to hold the dog accountable. If we ask the dog to “Sit”, we shouldn’t let the dog run off and play until they complete the requested behavior and we can use the leash to prevent them running off or utilize Leash Pressure (negative reinforcement) until they complete the behavior to ensure consistent obedience & accountability.
Puppy Proofing, Leash, Tether, Place, Crate, Supervise.
If you’re not actively interacting with and/or consistently supervising your dog, they should be Tethered, On Place, or in their Crate.
You can also Puppy Proof your home to keep your dog safe by limiting your dog’s freedom and access to anything toxic or anything they shouldn’t have such as cleaning products, food, trash, toilets, windows, Etc.
It’s important to supervise your dog at all times, tether them, or put them in their crate for safety and to prevent them from learning, practicing, & rehearsing unwanted problem behaviors. If you do not prevent, manage, redirect, punish, or correct, you are allowing reward/reinforcement, which means an increase in the likelihood of the unwanted behavior reoccurring.
Reach out today to schedule Your Free Consultation!
Name Recognition
Name = Eye Contact = Reward
Say your dog’s name, once they make eye contact with you, Mark the desired behavior (Eye Contact/Engagement) with “Yes” and have your dog come to you for a treat, once they finish the treat say “Break” and toss another treat away from you, once they finish the treat you tossed away, Say their name again and Mark and reward for Eye Contact & Engagement, Repeat. You can also do this with 2 or more people, having the dog go back and forth using name recognition and the “Yes” Marker, this is a bit of a recall game!
Name Recognition is how we teach the dog their name which can be used to get their attention and before given commands. It’s not a formal recall. Name means to make eye contact with the handler upon which we mark to pair the reward to the behavior. So the dog percieves that the name means to make eye contact to receive reward.